If you want to eat well in a big city like Rome, it pays to do a little homework before you go. Like any place, there are so many restaurants, it’s difficult to know how to separate the good from the ‘meh’. Generally, the restaurants smack bang in amongst the main tourist sights are the most expensive places to eat, and the least authentic. Hunting down the restaurants the locals eat at is the best way to ensure you’ll be eating something delicious. Nothing taints a good holiday more than a bad meal! Especially in Italy! And once you do find that place, I can guarantee you there’ll be a line at the door ( a good sign it’s a good restaurant, but often means you don’t get a chance to find out why).
On our last trip to Rome I spent hours and hours researching some prospective restaurants. I didn’t want to just find the most popular and ‘well known’, because often they don’t live up to their reputation (and I did have that very experience while in Rome – a place I was so looking forward to that had rave reviews, was on every blogger’s top 10 list, yet was our worst, and most expensive meal in Rome). I find Trip Advisor is a great place to find out real traveller’s reviews, and if you find restaurants being reviewed in Italian (use google translate) you can dig out the local faves. This little place, Osteria Da Fortunata, came up time and time again, so I decided to book ahead.
We found the place easy enough, right off Campo de Fiori, which was a bit of a worry because I find the best restaurants are usually not quite so close to the main piazzas. We turned off the Campo onto Via del Pellegrino to see a woman wearing a bandana and apron, hand rolling pasta inside the front window. She is making Strozzapreti – small worm-like shapes of pasta – with a serious, determined look on her face.
The street out front was packed with people, watching her roll our her pasta as they waited to get in. I gently pushed past the throng of people, who are mostly speaking in Italian (a good sign, this means the locals eat here and I was even more certain we had found a gem) and walked up to the waitress and used my broken Italian to say we have a reservation. “Ah, yes, yes…Liliana, no? Si, si…inside,” and with that we are whisked out of the cold and into the warmth of the small crowded dining area, trying hard to avoid the burning stares I feel behind me and wondering if I should be worried about the malocchio (the evil eye). Making that booking ahead was a smart thing to do!
Inside, there are two separate dining areas, as if you were in two rooms of someone’s house, with a picture of the little old Nonna who started it all, Nonna Fortunata, looking down on you.
Tables are wedged closely to each other, so privacy isn’t really a thing, but that’s pretty typical for restaurants in Italy. We had to get the only table sitting next to an American family who were having difficulty trying to explain to the waiter their son had food allergies. No gluten or dairy (um.. why are you in a pasta restaurant???). The waiter is brusque (to say the least) and not helpful, so I try to translate for her (oh God, why did I get involved?). In the end the kid gets a plate of what can only be described as fried strips of meat with NOTHING else and I can’t help but agree with her when she starts shouting “this is inedible.” I mean, yeah, it didn’t look all that appetising, but I really hate it when people make a scene. There’s a way say it, and in my opinion it isn’t screeching at the waiter! I just don’t think Italians get the food allergy thing.
Anyhow, like all restaurants, you can’t please everyone – BUT, our meals were OUTSTANDING. Truly, truly delicious. So good in fact, we went back two more times. We stuck to classics, and there was a lot on the menu we obviously did not eat, but what we ate was some of the best food we ate in Rome. Sauces rich and full of flavour, big welcoming bowls fresh pasta and slow cooked meats that had us licking our lips and using the complimentary bread to mop up the dregs at the bottom of the plate.
The specials include whatever is in season. We were lucky enough to be there in artichoke season, so I ordered the Strozzapreti with Artichokes. The pasta had a delciious chew, there was a nice meaty kick of pancetta and that earthy artichoke, tossed with a simple garlic oil and scattered with parmesan cheese was quite simply, divine.
The Eggplant Parmigiana was quite frankly, nirvana. One of the best I’ve ever had, and now the most common meal my husband asks for at home. I love it when the eggplant parmigiana is sturdy, so when you slice through it it’s like a piece of lasagne. This also had whole slices of fresh mozzarella, which had set inside, giving this the texture it needs so the eggplant doesn’t taste mushy. We ordered this each time we ate here, and were so disappointed on the last night because they had run out by 8pm. This one needs to be ordered early.
Light, pillowy gnocchi drenched in a rich meaty ragu was also the stuff straight out of Nonna’s kitchen. I mean – if the gnocchi are made well and the ragu is full of flavour, what more in life do you need?
Mix the ragu with fresh fettuccine for a change… equally as good (but I am a gnocchi lover at heart).
My husband ordered this Veal Milanese, and then swapped with me because he was expecting it to be served in a tomato sauce (which is how I make it at home), but it is made in the way northern Italians do, with wine, stock and herbs. It was very good though (a side of Milanese risotto would have been a good accompaniment, but we stuck to the pasta).
This was the meal I ordered and was convinced to swap for the above-mentioned Veal Milanese. This Slow Cooked Oxtail was unbelievable. Seriously. Sticky, rich, meat so tender it just melted in your mouth! Now how did I let him talk me into swapping???
As you can see, we love our tomato sauce – but there was plenty of creamy sauces on the menu, such as the Roman classic: Carbonara, if you are so inclined. I saw plenty of people eating it so I can only assume it, too, was good.
The meals were generous, so I didn’t find the room for dessert. I seldom do, I prefer to get a gelato a little later in the evening. Drinks were reasonable, as were the prices of the meals themselves, especially when you take into account how close this place is to a main tourist attraction. The waiters are a little…how can I say…impatient. But, the food is so good, any flaws are easy to overlook.
If you’re going to Rome and looking for a restaurant that guarantees good hearty authentic meals, you can’t go wrong with Osteria Da Fortunata, unless perhaps you can’t eat gluten or dairy! Book ahead to avoid standing outside in the cold. Do as I did, send them a message via their Facebook page here.
kirk shufelt
I agree, this place is excellent. I ate there 3 times last year and plan on going there when i visit Rome this fall. The Pasta al Carbonara is the best i’ve ever had. Get it with the strozzapreti.
Liliana
I agree Kirk – the strozzapreti were delicious. Everything we ate there was fantastic – I plan on returning when I get back next year! Enjoy Rome – my favourite city!
I’m just wondering how did you go about making a reservation at this restaurant? Did you call in advance or did you book online? Thank you!
Hi Jasmin. I called them direct and made the reservation around 1 week prior. They have a facebook page that lists the phone number. Most of the staff speak Italian only, but if you ask if someone speaks English they will get someone to assist you. Enjoy!
Liliana,
I called Ostera de Fortunata to make a reservation and was told they dont take reservations. I didnt know if I spoke with someone who didnt want to deal with a reservation or it that is now their policy. Have you make a reservation there since your 2019 trip?
Hi Trisha
Sorry I missed this message before. No, I haven’t been back since 2019 due to Covid-19. Perhaps they have changed their policies since then. I recommend if you do go to get there early and wait. Good luck!